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When compiling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate well-known high-end names. Yet, situated high among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Surprise Honour

This little Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the proprietors completely shocked.

“I am completely surprised,” says a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their small restaurant achieving such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the food, and this eatery certainly excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning outside its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this gastronomic honour.